Thematic trails

Apolonija’s trail

Have you met our Apolonija yet? Red-haired Apolonija is a descendant of a woman accused of witchcraft in the 18th century in Gornja Radgona because she used herbs to ease ailments in both people and animals and could churn more butter from the same amount of milk than other farmers. Although there are many paths suitable for cycling or hiking, Apolonija also ventures out using modern means of transport. Along the way, hospitable locals treat her to kvasenice, prleška gibanica, crackling pastry, as well as walnut and poppy seed rolls. She first stops by a wine cellar beneath a romantic waterfall, refreshing herself with sparkling bubbles and the native Ranina wine. She casts a side glance at Špital, a unique building dating back to the early 14th century, and the Memory Park Never Again, which commemorates the battles for the country’s independence. She pauses at the Avenue of the Greats, dedicated to notable figures from Radgona, and ascends to St. Peter’s Church.

Her journey continues to Ivanjševska Slatina, where she takes a brief stop to sip water bubbling from the earth—a water once rumored to be boiled underground by witches. Soon, she arrives in Negova, where she’s greeted by locals in baroque attire who charmingly reenact the Mountain Trial. After visiting the Church of the Virgin Mary, she is reminded to behave appropriately at the pillory. The restored 14th-century castle invites her within its walls, and in the castle’s herbal park, among 400 herbs, she picks her own.

But it’s time to return, as the grand fair is starting in town. She heads back through Črešnjevci, the birthplace of Peter Dajnko, a man who loved letters and bees, in a typical Pannonian house. She finally rests at Lisjakova struga along the Mura River, where wild garlic is gathered in spring and fish picnics are held in summer. As a life enthusiast, she doesn’t shy away from good food; by evening, she stops at one of the many tourist farms and indulges in sour soup with buckwheat porridge and blood sausages with sauerkraut. Then she disappears into the night, leaving behind a lingering scent of dried fruits and anise.

And before you too leave Apolonija’s trail, don’t forget to tie her ribbon to her travel staff, wishing for health and love.